New problems @ Gandalfs…..

Fighting with the tale end of a concussion and some kind of Flu, I had to dig deep today to send a few new lines:

Blue Hyundai. 6B. Sit start the far right side of the Chucharro stone, (above the 2 blocks) using the big hold. Strike directly up to a slightly sketchy top out.

Yet another Chucharro Eliminate. 6C. S/S the pocket LH. Go direct to the top right sloper RH, the black crimp and top.

Arete Eliminate. S/S the Electrode problem using the thin slot LH and the arete RH. Go direct to the sloper on the right side, the sloping hold on the left, (borrowed from Electrode) and then finish with that problem. 6B+

Royston. 6B. S/S the white protrusion and the RH side pull from Compression Reactor. Use the arete to gain the top.

Keith Barnes has started and very nearly completed a new eliminate on the Chucharro stone, more info very soon.


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Chucharro Eliminate.

This wee problem is an interesting beast, and is, IMO, the local test piece, here is the beta for the hardest version. Start sitting as normal at the pocket. Do a 1 hander start up to the shared slope. Now, miss out the top right slope and go from the shared sloper low down straight to the black crimp, RH, then the top. Only achieved so far with the big rock up. 7A+/B. Possibly unrepeated, not sure……

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A break in the weather…

Keith Barnes, Bruce Swait and myself, headed up to Gandalfs Wednesday and after a little bit of brushing we were surprised to find that conditions were ok, not perfect, but good enough to send a few problems. Eventually the sun did its thing and as the bodies loosened up we all turned to the harder projects we are working. I hope for a rain free week ahead, and my first send of Caileans Scoop. I’m not digging his beta, so hopefully I can eliminate a hold 7B. Keith really needs to get Chucharro 7A+, and Bruce, who did really well for his first visit, is eyeing up Slot Machine 6B+. Thanks for a cool day guys, and yes, the cycle ride home was killer, even with the down hill.

See you out there………

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Chucharro down graded to 6B+.

Bouldering, it’s a strange thing some times. Years ago, while doing the FA of Chucharro I tried a sequence that turned out to be too hard, so the only method possible for me was to do the big rock up. Done this way, the problem is now graded 7A. My personal feeling was always “2 good moves at Eng’ 6b”, hence Red – in the book.
However, today I did the problem using the same holds but was able to use the first sequence that seemed too hard all those years ago. The result, it’s Font’ 6B+ and NO harder!

The Beta : Start at the pocket, share the next hold. Go straight to the right hand slope up high, then get the crimp with the left hand. From the crimp you can top out right, or stretch/cross over left to the obvious bit on the lip. It’s a path.

Well, it started raining as Keith and I left the hill today, hope it doesn’t last………..

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Another new problem.

Tall Simon and I had a cool sesh at Gandalfs this evening. The friction was good and the air was cool.
Simon very nearly got the traverse of the Black Stone, using a harder sequence than has previously been used.
I added a new problem/combo : Side Control into Compression Reactor, circa Font’ 6C.

Fuzzy had  a session in Bath, I don’t have all the details yet, but he did the low Traverse on the Big Block. More soon.

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Hot Lines.

Sadly, I have to start this blog with a mini rant…..
Do not leave your rubbish at the crag, especially bundles of finger tape, have you no manners?
Gandalfs is the best bouldering we have locally, if you don’t clean your boots, the place will be ruined within a year, sort it out please.
Excessive chalk, there is no need for it. If you can’t find friction, train harder, or move on. The Chucharro sector sits in the sun after 2.00pm, so climb else where during the mid afternoon.

Keith Barnes added a S/S problem today. Start at the White protrusion just right of the Arete, make for the crimps above and a direct top out. 6B? (On the Side Control wall)

The start hold of Side Control has partially snapped off, but thankfully, a good side pull can be found, just below the original hold.

The best top out moves are on Activist, above the ankle busting blocks, so don’t fall off eh. You might disagree, leave a comment.

Keith Barnes also sent Fuzzy Roof Line, first go, no Beta, and down graded it. 6A is the current thinking, it just shows how temperature can make a difference. It was FREEZING the day Fuzzy got the FA.

See you out there.

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After hours….

A few of us ditched the resin last night and a good session went down at Gandalfs till dark. Mike Goldthorpe sent Chucharro and confirmed the quality.
Hannah Brading sent Side Control, her 2nd attempt and her first visit.
Adam P. nearly got Activist, he tried very hard to battle the sloping top in near pitch black.
Fuzzy experimented with falling on Gear at the Quarry and decked out.
Cailean Harker, a.k.a The Beast, got the third repeat of Scoop #1, demonstrated his new traverse (7C+), The Bridge of Khazard Dum, and added another gem, this time a 1 move wonder from standing and probably 7A, Nazgul. Both problems are yet to be repeated, but Fuzzy came very close on the last one. You can watch Cailean sending The Bridge, by clicking on his link, found in our Blogroll.

With a few eliminates left to go, and the uber hard diagonal line untouched, this year looks like it will be a busy time.

Thanks to everyone who made it.

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And Yes, it’s true…. Cailean Harker sent the super hard traverse of the Chucharro stone at Gandalfs crag. Going right to left and involving a lower off to the Chucharro sloper as well as a side ways leap to poor holds and hooks. Grade has been offered at 7C, but a + sign, or even a number 8 may be more precise. Time and traffic will tell……….

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Shadowfax FA

And so it came to pass that Alex didn’t do Shadowfax first, it was indeed Cailean Harker. It appears that Alex was talking about Dark Side, which was old before the book came out.

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This week, inbetween the down pours, Josh Goulden completed the “Girdle Traverse” of the Black Stone at Gandalfs, his line, (which follows the sequence through the middle of the face) is called Dark Stone Waltz and weighs in at around 6C. It’s a quality addition just waiting for the repeats.

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